Tips For Buying a Used Car
We’ve met many people over the years who have avoided buying a car from a private seller because they are concerned that they don’t have enough knowledge to know what to look for, what to ask for and how to recognise what is legitimate – and not legitimate – sale.
It is a worry, as not having the right knowledge can result in costing you more money down the road (excuse the pun), especially as you don’t get the after-care service and protection you would expect from buying through a car dealership. There will be no warranties or breakdown cover, however, these omissions can be reflected in the price when going through a private seller, so one to bear in mind.
Don’t forget, many people are simply selling their cars because they are upgrading to a newer model, and nothing more than that. Facebook Marketplace is full of people selling items they no longer want or need, it’s just the same as a car. But we understand that with a car, it can be a lot more money and a lot more need-to-know than buying a second-hand chest of drawers.
This is why we have created this simple, yet informative guide for you, to help provide you with the confidence you need when looking to make that purchase.
Finding the car
There are many ways private sellers advertise; the classified ad websites, Facebook, even a FOR SALE sign stuck in the window of their car.
Flip it around, and you can even place a ‘Wanted’ post up on local Facebook noticeboards and catch the attention of those who haven’t yet placed their vehicle up for sale, or know someone who is selling.
Why so cheap? You may see a similar car selling for more through a dealership, but as we have said before, private sellers do not offer the additional services and also do not have rent and other dealership bills to cover. The vendor may simply be looking for a quick sale but most often, it is down to the age, condition, or history of a vehicle. Understanding the market and comparing similar vehicles out there for sale will help you to know what to expect for your money.
Any selling a car should provide as much information as they possibly can. Steer clear of the ones that don’t give a lot of detail.
All adverts should include:
- Make, model, engine size (and name), plus trim level.
- The number plate year identifier
- Date of last MoT/remaining months of MoT
- Last service date and service history
- Colour and type of paint finish
- Standard equipment/option highlights
- Where and when the car can be viewed
- A contact telephone numbers
- The asking price
- Several clear, detailed photos of the outside and inside of the vehicle
Once you have spotted a few that you like the look of that tick all of these boxes and come in your price range, you can make the arrangements to view them. Don’t feel pressured to go for the first one you see; this is a big commitment and you want to feel confident with your purchase.
Viewings, inspections and test drives
Now is the time you can review the trustworthiness of the seller and ensure the car’s history and credentials are as sound as the bodywork and running gear.
TRUST
If the seller asks you to view the vehicle anywhere other than their home and the address that appears on the logbook, then err with caution. Ensure they can prove that they are the rightful owner. Anyone reluctant to provide this information could be a fraudster, so best to just walk away.
INSPECT AND TEST
How does the car look and sound? To ensure it is in sound condition for the price being asked, check the following –
- Engine. Check for leaks, oil level, head gasket condition and exhaust smoke.
- Gearbox and clutch. Feel and listen to the smoothness of the gear change and test the clutch biting point.
- Bodywork. Check the outside and underneath – a torch is useful for the latter.
- Wheels and tyres. Tread depth, rubber condition and makes of each tyre.
- Interior. Check the boot, dash (for mileage and warning lights) and electronics thoroughly.
- Test drive. Don’t hold back here, drive it until you have checked everything you want to.
- Documents. V5c, service history and MoT (although this is now available online).
(Source – Auto Trader)
CAR HISTORY AND PAPERWORK
You need to ensure the vendor can provide the following documentation:
- Proof of ownership
- V5 logbook
- MoT certificate – also check the mileage on this against the odometer
Next, check the VIN (chassis number) matches the paperwork. The car’s VIN plate is usually visible at the base of the windscreen, but on older cars may be underneath the bonnet or stamped elsewhere on the bodywork.
It’s a sale!
Once you’ve decided on the car you want to buy from a credible vendor, it’s time to agree on how to make payment.
It’s fairly common to secure the purchase with a deposit until you can get the remaining cash from the bank. Make sure to communicate a timeframe to ensure you do not lose the deal.
In this day and age, however, people tend to prefer bank transfers, yet some don’t trust it as much as a telephone bank transfer, typically the fastest way to pay for a used car.
It is the vendor’s responsibility to notify the DVLA that you are the new owner, but you should make sure you are given a completed New Keeper Supplement or V5C/2 – which is a tear-out part of the V5 logbook. Your new V5 logbook should turn up in a couple of weeks, but if it doesn’t after four weeks, then you should notify the DVLA.
Be aware that road tax is no longer transferable when a car is sold, and the new owner is accountable for taxing the car as soon as possible.
And all that is left for us to say is, happy and safe driving! And bring your new wheels to us for its next service and MoT!